In other words, if you are shooting a sunset landscape, you may expose for the sky and let the shadows do their thing, where if you are shooting a backlit person and don't care about the background, you'd expose for the person and let the highlights blow. Of course, one needs to worry about blowing highlights, but it's up to the photographer to decide what the subject is that they are exposing for.
That info will be well preserved in the raw file. This gives you a "what you see is what you get" in your evf, but it forces you to expose to the right, because the shadows will appear darker.
NEAT IMAGE SHADOWS MANUAL
Menu - > preview exposure in manual mode = ON
NEAT IMAGE SHADOWS FULL
*edit* I only ever shoot full manual, so not sure how this would work in aperture priority etc. Raw or jpeg? What shooting mode and metering more? If you are concerned about recovering shadows, you can use the following hack: If you require the two ranges on a single image, the old tried and true soft/hard graduated ND filter is still available from places like B&H. It will also give you some experience in where to make compromise if needed according to your preference for shadows or highlights and what artistic balance you are trying to achieve with the image. Going through that effort a few times will illustrate the significant exposure range that is necessary to compress the highlight/shadows into a single image. That's a kind of HDR that is later combined via masking in photoshop. Even a dual image would be better one image for the sky that holds the sun blotch and a second for the foreground shadows. In these images you have both sun burnouts (halos) and deep shadows that you want to recover. That much correction would mean to me that the exposure needs compensation (using the histogram as help), or that HDR is called for (and that is a whole other skill).
You can also look at in your post processing software, but in the camera tells you more about how/when and how-much to try to correct the camera exposure.Ī +100 shadows generally means problems and if not then you have a very friendly "negative". If you can, reload those images into the camera and look at the histogram.
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